How I Hiatus: Rome, Italy

Dec 3

Castel Sant’Angelo by night, by Sael Bartolucci

“I had not been to Rome since I was a teenager and my then local crush took me on a tour of the city on a scooter. This time, 20+ years later, I prepared a little to-do list of food shopping and of course major classic locations I wanted to visit: so here we go!”

—Sael Bartolucci, Founder of House of Hiatus

After our week in Sicily we flew to Rome for a short 3-day transit back home. Because of a last minute issue with our hotel reservation we stayed one night at Bettoja Hotel Mediterraneo. This outstanding example of Art Decò architecture is located conveniently close to the main Termini Rail Station, on top of the Esquilino Hill, the highest of the seven hills of Rome. The Mediterraneo is out of a Wes Anderson film, with all its perfectly preserved vintage details and intricate marble interiors. We were pleasantly surprised with a delicious continental breakfast buffet which was served in their mermaid room. We walked through the Monti neighborhood, where we found less tourists and more locals and is also knows for its vintage stores like LOL , Pifebo and Flamingo. In the afternoon we stopped by the Colosseo and the Foro Traiano, where remains of a 2nd century square remind you that the whole city is millenia of layers built on Roman ruins. We also passed by Piazza del Quirinale, the presidential palace, which stands high on the city with wonderful views.

The second day we moved to the much more intimate Relais Orso. The city has many renovated buildings,which function as boutique hotels and b&b’s, so choosing one is entirely about personal preferences and availability. We liked this spot because of its location close to Piazza Navona and the Tiberio river. The best kept lunch secret is Vivi bistrot, with delicious food and the perfect view of the Navona fountain. Down the street, in Via Sora there are many vintage stops, just stroll and follow your nose! On the way back up to the the Relais we discovered two wonderful textile, interior and clothing stores right next to each other: Casa Elfrida and Lisa Corti, where surely you will find the perfect souvenirs! We had dinner at the fabulous Trattoria Da Luigi. A 5 star fish restaurant nestled in the charming Piazza Sforza Cesarini. Make a reservation and ask to be seated outside, the people watching alone is worth it, and the food is truly divine.

For our last day, we walked up to Piazza di Spagna very early in the am, in order to beat the tourist crowds and had our last cappuccino and budino di riso (my favorite Italian pastry!) at the the Antico Caffe Greco, the oldest bar in Rome and second oldest in Italy. Opened in 1760, this wonderful bar has been a haven for writers, politicians, artists like Goethe, Fortuny, Byron,Twain, Nietzsche, De Chirico, Baudelaire, Levi and even Ferlinghetti! Walking by the river we stumbled upon the Ara Pacis Museum which surprised us in its light filled architecture. We made it only as far as Castel Sant’Angelo on the Lungotevere Vaticano side, but enjoyed the Biblio Bar outdoor seating and taking a break to read and snack. Our last dinner had to be at the famous Trattoria Al Moro, where you must try their carbonara, the classic cacio e pepe and the carciofi alla romana (you will never have artichoke like this anywhere else!). We ended the evening at Fontana di Trevi, which was -as always- packed with people and as cinematic as ever.